Silk Road
by Nick Middleton
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In this travelogue, Nick Middleton describes his difficult and adventurous journey across the Tibetan plateau towards Mount Kailash, to complete the kora (holy pilgrimage). Setting off from Ravu with his guides Tsetan and the shepherd Daniel, he travels through a stark, cold and beautiful landscape, crossing high mountain passes marked by prayer flags, encountering nomads, sheep, wildlife and frozen rivers. As they climb higher, the narrator suffers from the effects of high altitude, headaches and breathlessness. They reach Darchen, the base for the Kailash pilgrimage, where the narrator falls ill and cannot sleep because of the altitude. A local doctor treats him with Tibetan medicine and he recovers. At Darchen, initially deserted and desolate, he meets Norbu, a cheerful Tibetan academic who has also come to do the kora and who, like the narrator, plans to do it the practical way rather than through hardship. The narrative vividly captures the harsh terrain, the culture and faith of the Tibetan people, and the physical challenges of high-altitude travel.
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The travelogue records a demanding pilgrimage across the Tibetan plateau to Mount Kailash. It vividly evokes the stark beauty of the landscape, the hardships of high-altitude travel, and the culture, faith and warmth of the Tibetan people the narrator meets along the way.
Setting off from Ravu
The narrator leaves Ravu to reach Mount Kailash for the kora, guided by Tsetan, his driver, and accompanied by the shepherd Daniel. As they set out, they pass hills covered with prayer flags and a landscape of nomads, sheep and dark tents, travelling through a bare, immense and beautiful terrain.
Crossing the high passes
The journey takes them over increasingly high and cold mountain passes, marked by prayer flags and cairns. They encounter frozen rivers, snow, wildlife such as wild asses and a solitary drokba (herdsman), and at times have to drive across dangerous frozen streams. Tsetan skilfully manages the difficult, snowbound roads as they climb ever higher.
Altitude sickness
As they gain altitude, the narrator suffers headaches, breathlessness and discomfort. On reaching the small town of Darchen, the base for the Kailash pilgrimage, he cannot sleep because of the thin air and feels seriously unwell. A Tibetan doctor examines him and gives him traditional Tibetan medicine, after which he gradually recovers.
Meeting Norbu at Darchen
Darchen at first seems deserted and desolate, with no other pilgrims. Then the narrator meets Norbu, a cheerful, English-speaking Tibetan academic from Beijing who has also come to do the kora around Mount Kailash. Like the narrator, Norbu means to do the pilgrimage in a practical, comfortable way rather than by prostrating himself, and the two agree to become companions for the journey.